There are many things that I grow well on my rambling little homestead but sadly, rhubarb just isn’t one of them. Even my green-thumbed great-grandfather who lived here before me had trouble getting a rhubarb plant to take hold. It’s not that rhubarb is a particularly difficult plant to cultivate – I know many people who have big fine plants with thick crimson stalks that reportedly thrive with little to no effort. For whatever reason, growing my own has eluded me and that’s a real shame because it is one of my favorite spring ingredients. Luckily rhubarb is locally available in mid to late spring at Suttil’s Gardens on Groth Street in Springfield and can be found year-round in the freezer section at Humphrey’s Market on Laurel Street.
A member of the buckwheat family, rhubarb is a hardy perennial native to southern Siberia. Its name stems from the Russians who grew it along the Volga River, formerly known as the Rha River. For centuries the roots were used as a medicinal herb to treat fevers and upset stomachs. It eventually made its way through the Middle East and Europe and became a highly valued culinary ingredient that added a punch of sour tang to meat stews and drinks. It wasn’t until the 18th century, when sugar became more widely available and inexpensive, that rhubarb began showing up in sweet preparations like pies and tarts.
With flashy red stems and huge fan-shaped leaves, rhubarb is pretty enough to occupy space in a flower bed. It’s important to note, however, that only the red parts of the plant are safe to eat because the leaves contain toxic levels of oxalic acid that can cause intense nausea and stomach cramps.
Beyond classic recipes like pies and crumbles, rhubarb is at home in many sweet-savory preparations such as this rhubarb chutney. It’s perfect on a cheeseboard or used as a glaze for grilled pork chops, seared duck breast or fatty fish, like salmon or tuna. Pickled rhubarb is another favorite accoutrement that adds a vibrant punch to a green salad with crumbled feta, fish tacos or even a simple turkey sandwich. And for those looking for a low-effort recipe with practically limitless applications, look no further than a simple rhubarb sauce. Drizzle it over ice cream, swirl it onto blondie batter or use it in a refreshing poolside tipple.
Black pepper rhubarb chutney
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
cup minced shallot or red onion
A pinch of salt
¾ teaspoon freshly crushed black pepper
3 cups diced rhubarb
¼ cup honey
2-3 tablespoons sugar, to taste
1 teaspoon sherry or red wine vinegar
½ cup orange juice, dry white wine or water
Bay leaf
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium high heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and sauté until slightly softened and fragrant. Add the black pepper, rhubarb, honey, sugar, vinegar, orange juice or water and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb has broken down and the mixture has thickened. Season to taste with additional salt or sugar as needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Pickled rhubarb
Ingredients:
1 pound rhubarb
1 ½ cups cider vinegar
½ cup sugar (more or less, to taste)
1 ½ teaspoons salt
1 heaping teaspoon pickling spice
3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
Halve the rhubarb stalks lengthwise if they’re thick, then cut into half-inch slices and pack them into a heat-proof quart jar.
Combine the cider vinegar, sugar, salt and pickling spice in a small reactive saucepan along with ½ cup water. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat and let cool for five minutes. Pour the vinegar mixture over the packed rhubarb to cover. Let cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 12 hours before serving.
Rhubarb margarita
For the rhubarb sauce:
1 pound rhubarb, cut into large dice
½ water
½ cup sugar
For the margarita:
Juice of six limes
3 tablespoons triple-sec
¾ cup blanco tequila
Combine the rhubarb, sugar and water in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until the rhubarb has broken down and the mixture is thick. Strain the mixture into a jar and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled. Preserve the solids to serve over ice cream or swirl into yogurt.
Combine the strained rhubarb syrup with the lime juice, triple sec and tequila and stir well. Serve immediately over ice or chill overnight.
Ashley Meyer is a chef, freelance writer and mom of two based in Springfield.