Ssamjang Korean spicey chicken lettuce wrap.
It seems like only days ago that I was gingerly plucking a single leaf from each little lettuce seedling in my garden, hoping to gather enough to put a salad on the dinner table. Since then they’ve rapidly grown into generous, lush plants, each large enough to make a meal on its own. I don’t think I could ever tire of crisp green salads, but in the midst of so much bounty, I’ve been happily exploring the myriad of other ways lettuce can be enjoyed beyond the bowl.
Wraps
Larb, also spelled laab, is a traditional Southeast Asian preparation originally from Laos, though it is widely popular throughout the region. Stir-fried ground meat, typically pork, chicken, duck or beef is seasoned with toasted rice powder, lime juice, fish sauce, chili and fresh herbs and served either warm or at room temperature alongside sticky rice and fresh vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage and sliced cucumber, which are used to make little wraps. Bright, spicy and incredibly easy to make, it’s perfect for summer meal prep. Similarly, ssam is a Korean preparation that involves wrapping small bites of food, often grilled meat, rice and pickled vegetables, in layers of leafy vegetables like lettuce or perilla leaves (also known as shiso leaves). Dressed with a simple yet extremely flavorful soybean paste dipping sauce (known as ssamjang), ssam are as fun to eat as they are delicious and a great way to repurpose leftover protein.
Soups
Stir chopped fresh lettuce into soups for added crunch and vibrancy. It will wilt slightly and add a layer of crisp texture to intensely flavored preparations like tortilla soup, posole, ramen or Vietnamese pho. And though it may sound odd to us Midwesterners, pureed lettuce soup is a classic French preparation that makes use of the outer leaves of lettuce that were deemed too tough to use in salad. Served hot or cold, it’s an elegant yet exceedingly simple preparation that shines with verdant clarity. To prepare, sauté onions or leeks on a little butter until softened and fragrant. Add a handful of fresh herbs such as tarragon, mint, parsley or dill along with your lettuce leaves and just enough water to cover then bring to a bare simmer. Take it off the heat and purée it with a splash of cream if desired, season to taste with salt and serve hot or chilled, garnished with additional herbs and crispy croutons.
Grilled and braised
Sturdy lettuces like romaine are excellent candidates for the grill, especially drizzled with punchy garlic and anchovy kissed dressings like caesar or green goddess. Avoid a soggy mess by using just the crisp, inner core of the lettuce (save the outer leaves for soup, perhaps?). Slice in half lengthwise through the core and brush lightly with oil before grilling cut side down over very hot coals so the lettuce gets a little charred without being burnt.
Butter braised lettuce is another ethereal preparation that defies its humble simplicity. Slice a core of romaine lettuce lengthwise into quarters (or sixths if large). Melt four tablespoons of butter in a skillet along with a clove of minced garlic and a couple minced anchovies, then nestle the lettuce wedges in the skillet with the garlic butter. Sprinkle the lettuce wedges with a pinch of salt and add ¼ cup water or broth to the pan. Cover and cook for two minutes, then turn the wedges and cook, uncovered, until the liquid has nearly evaporated, about two to three minutes more. Garnish with lemon zest, parmesan and minced chives and serve alongside steak or over a crusty slice of toasted baguette.
Larb
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons jasmine rice
2-3 small shallots, thinly sliced (or substitute a small red onion)
3 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon sugar
1 bird’s eye chili, thinly sliced
4 scallions, thinly sliced
½ cup each roughly chopped mint and cilantro
1 pound ground meat of choice (can also substitute two pounds mushrooms, roasted, or two packages extra-firm tofu, drained and crumbled)
1 head butter lettuce, leaves separated, or large spinach leaves
¼ cup prepared crispy shallots or chopped peanuts
Toast the rice in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the rice is golden and has a nutty aroma. Cool briefly, then transfer to a clean spice grinder or mortar and pestle and grind into a powder.
Combine the shallots, fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, chili, scallions and herbs in a mixing bowl and toss to combine.
Return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and add the pork. Cook, breaking the meat up into small pieces, until it’s no longer pink and and barley beginning to brown. Transfer the cooked pork to the mixing bowl with the herbs along with the reserved rice powder and mix well to combine. Season to taste with salt, black pepper and additional chilis as desired. Spoon the larb into the lettuce cups and sprinkle with the crispy shallots or chopped peanuts.
Ssamjang
Adapted from a recipe featured Maangchi’s Big Book of Korean Cooking
Considered by many to be the modern Julia Child of Korean cooking, Emily Kim or Maangchi as she is known, is a YouTube star and cookbook author famous for her approachable and authentic Korean recipes.
Ingredients:
¼ cup doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste)
1 teaspoon gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 scallion, minced
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
Toasted sesame seeds, to serve
Combine the above ingredients and mix well. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve with grilled meat in lettuce wraps or as a dip for cut veggies.