Pie with spinach and soft cheese.
Erbazzone is essentially a rustic tart filled with savory greens and cheese, with variations found throughout the gastronomically rich region of Emilio-Romagna in northern Italy. A celebration of early spring produce, similar dishes such as Greece’s famous spanakopita can be found throughout Italy and the Mediterranean with varying types of vegetables and herbs, cheese and crust. I was recently inspired to make it again after a long morning weeding my garden beds as this recipe takes full advantage of the verdant greens that are popping up all over whether you want them there or not.
We’ve become accustomed to having access to fresh, leafy greens year-round, but just a few generations ago the first spring greens were eagerly awaited, a welcome tonic after months of heavy winter fare. A host of pesky “weeds” such as dandelions, lamb’s-quarter, chickweed and nettle are indeed edible and very delicious in the spring when they’re young and tender. Dandelions have been used as food and medicine for centuries and were actually introduced to the Americas in the early 1600s by early colonists and cultivated for their healthful properties and as a food source for honeybees. Dandelion greens will eventually become tough and bitter under the heat of the midsummer sun, but in the early spring they’re sweet and tender. They can be eaten raw, sautéed or used in soups.
Lamb’s-quarter is another prolific plant that can be found in gardens, yards and alleys throughout central Illinois. A member of the amaranth family, lamb’s-quarter, also known as pigweed or goosefoot, contains more protein, iron, vitamin B12 and vitamin C than spinach or kale. A single plant can drop over 75,000 seeds, allowing lamb’s-quarter plants to easily overrun a garden plot if left unchecked. While young leaves can be eaten raw like spinach, they do have a slightly fuzzy texture that goes away when cooked.
As the name implies, chickweed is a green treat much beloved by chickens, but it’s delicious and edible for humans as well. Another European native, it forms spreading mats on the ground and has small white flowers with five deeply lobed petals. It’s important anytime you’re foraging to confirm exactly what it is you’ve picked before eating it. If you’re unsure, the master gardeners at the University Illinois Extension are available to answer your horticultural questions. They can be reached at 217-782-4617 or by email at [email protected].
Erbazzone (Wild greens pie)
For the dough
1 ¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon each salt and sugar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter cut into small cubes, cold
¼ cup water or dry white wine, cold
For the filling
2 ounces thick-cut bacon, diced, or 2 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, (green parts only) sliced, or 1 onion, minced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
8 cups mixed spring greens such as dandelion, mustard, lamb’s-quarter, nettle, chickweed, spinach or Swiss chard, roughly chopped
½ cup sliced green onion, chives or wild ramps
15 ounces whole milk ricotta
1 egg
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup finely grated Parmesan
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (from roughly half a lemon)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon milk
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine the flour, salt and sugar, then add the cubes of butter and use a fork or your fingers to quickly incorporate the butter into the flour so that the butter is in pea-sized lumps. Make a well in the center of the flour, add the cold water or wine, then use a fork to mix in the liquid until you have a loose, shaggy ball. Tip the contents of the bowl out onto a floured work surface and gently knead the dough just enough to bring it together (overworking the dough will make the crust tough). Wrap the dough in plastic wrap or parchment paper and refrigerate while you make the filling.
Heat a large, nonreactive skillet over medium high heat. Cook the bacon until the fat renders, then add the leek or onion along with a pinch of salt and continue to cook until the onion begins to soften. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, being careful not to let the garlic brown, then add the greens. Cover to steam the greens and help them to wilt. Sauté briefly, then add the green onions and cook until fragrant. Transfer the greens mixture to a mixing bowl (you can use the bowl you made the dough in). Let cool briefly, then mix in the ricotta, egg, nutmeg, Parmesan, lemon zest and a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
Roll out the dough on a floured surface to a 13-inch round circle and slide the dough circle onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Mound the filling into the middle of the circle, leaving a two-inch border of dough. Fold the dough around the filling and brush the pastry with the milk. Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes until the crust is golden. Let rest 30 minutes before serving.